Bolzano – Wine, Alps & a bit Dolce Vita

Bolzano – often read not really visited – if you travel to Italy using the Austrian Alpine passes, you have a good chance to pass by Bolzano. The capital of the autonomous region of South Tyrol.

Duomo Bolzano – Perfect cloudy picture.

Accommodation

We found this cute apartment in the middle of Bolzano using Booking.com (https://www.booking.com/) . Cooper apartments (https://www.booking.com/hotel/it/cooper-apartments.de.html) is located next to the city hall only about 5-10 minutes walk from main station and a big parking lot („Laubengarage“). We booked a standard one-bedroom + one day-bed-room, which would be suitable for 4 persons. The apartment is spacious, equipped with a full service kitchen and a shower bathroom. Our apartment was in an upper floor and we had a wonderful view out over Bolzano’s roof tops and the mountains of the Ortler massif in the background. The room was clean and the online check-in / reception worked very well. We booked with breakfast, which was served in the Cooper Bread & Bistro in the ground-floor. The breakfast was delicious and simply huge – coffee (type and quantity – your choice), Cornetto (italian croissant), fruit plater & a full plate of cold cut (which can hardly be eaten by one person). Thumbs-up for this breakfast.

Principles of life: Never be afraid of crossing rivers, but never forget to look sideways and enjoy your life.

Food & Activity

This section is quite different to all our other travel reports. The reason is simple and already stated in the header of it. The main goals of our 3 days 2 nights stay in Bolzano getting rest, wine shopping and wander around.

Pizzeria Meraner

On one evening, we met one of our South Tyrolian friends, who used to live in Ulm but now returned to his home town Eppan. We met him for a Pizza @Restaurant Meraner (http://www.meraner.it/de) and had a really nice evening with some good wine, food and an Italian coffee to end the dinner. The pizza out of the wood oven was really tasty, the people @Meraner really chilled, we had nice conversations – perfect evening.

Wine Shopping @ Cantina St. Pauls

St. Pauls on a sunny day – church with an halo.

Our South Tyrolian friends brought us into contact with the wines from Cantina St. Pauls (https://www.stpauls.wine/). Every time we pass by Bolzano, we take a little circuit for a pre-lunch drink & wine shopping there. Our Favorites: Plötzner Weissburgunder, Fuxberg Chardonnay, Gfill Sauvignon, Turmfeld Cabernet Riserva, Zobl Lagrein. (A detailed review for this wines will be available beginning of next year in our Food section.)

St. Pauls of the track – strolling around for getting sober after wine tasting.

Wandering Around & Shopping

The pedestrian area of Bolzano asks to do shopping and wandering around. The type of pedestrian called „Laubengänge“ create a special atmosphere. The „Laubengänge“ are nice, quite and cozy. You can find known brands, small shops, local food stalls and good restaurants.

Conclusion

We really like Bozen and the whole region, we will hopefully return in May ’21 for an early summer in Bozen. We can recommend every sight and shop, which we introduced to you in this blog article.

We will see each other @ Passo Sella (https://www.passosella-resort.com/de/),

P.

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Sölden 2020 – Back to the Roots (during Summer).

As you might have noticed, we have not been to SouthEastAsia this summer. Because of the ongoing global pandemic, we cancelled our existing bookings and changed travel plans towards a road trip crossing the alps from our hometown Ulm towards Venice, Italy.

Italy is not far, but cloudy (Timmelsjoch).

Our first stop on our road trip was Sölden, (gifted by our families) we spent 4 days 3 nights in the valley Patrick used to learn skiing from the age of 3 years old on and had winter holiday for over 17 years. In 2017 we already visited Sölden for 5 days to do hiking and explored the beauty of the hidden paths, if you walk away from the ski resort. This year’s stay in Sölden was meant to be the beginning of intense 8 days hiking in Austrian Alps and South Tyrol Dolomites.

The good old times – Gästerennen

Activities

Hiking

Hiking – If you leave the ski resort, enter the valleys or the mountains on the opposite side of Sölden ski resort. You will find a huge variety of trails with nature that will keep you speechless.

We will present you 3 hikes, which we have done during this and the last stay. We use the professional version of the iPhone App (Bergfex – Anzeige: selbstbezahlte Werbung):

Tour 1: Windachtal to the Weisskarsee and back to Soelden

Tour 1 was a wonderful hike which starts with a nice walk at Lochle Alm (which you reach with an official hiker bus) in the beautiful „Windach Tal“. After about 500 Meter, you cross the Windach and start the hike to the „Weisskarsee“. Through a beautiful forest you get to the plateau beneath the „Brunnenkogel“. From there on the more interesting part of the hike starts, over a scree field, you reach the „Weisskarsee“. On your way back the trails tends to get steep during the descent, stay conscious and safe. Our physicalflashpacking estimated difficulty level: Medium

Tour 2 Hike starting at Hochsölden to Perler See and following the barrage back to Sölden.

Tour 2 starts at Grüner’s Alpengasthof with a walk through Sölden in direction of Giggijoch cable car. After a short ride to the top, the hike starts with a medium steep descent towards Hochsölden. From Hochsölden you have to hike in direction out of the valley towards „Perler See“. The „Perler See“ is a small alpin lake where you can have a lunch break all alone. After the lunch break and an approx. 800m descent, you can return to Sölden and Außerwald with an approx. 2,5h hike. Our physicalflashpacking estimated difficulty level: Easy to Medium.

Tour 3: From intermittent station of Gaislachkogelbahn through the Rettenbachtal to Schwarzsee and back to mountain station of Giggijochbahn.

Tour 3: You leave the intermittent station of Gaislachkogelbahn and head towards the Rettenbachtal, at Rettenbachalm you start a steep hike up till Rotkogelhütte, leaving this nice alpine hut untouched and head through the small valley towards Schwarzsee. The way back to Giggijochbahn is not steep und easy to do, it crosses the ski resort. Our physicalflashpacking estimated difficulty level: Overall: Easy, but the hike from Rettenbachalm to Rotkogelhütte definitely: Medium.

Schwarzsee

Other Activities:

Besides Hiking there are different other activities, which can be done @Sölden. During summer, Sölden is famous for the Bikerepublic, a mountainbike terrain throug-out the skiing area. In Längenfeld you can find the Aquadome, a large thermal bath. On the Oetz, the name giving river of the Ötztal, you can do lots of water sports, like rafting, kayaking.

Accommodation

Grüner’s Alpengasthof (https://gruener-soelden.com/) – During Patrick’s skiing trips to Sölden, he used to visit Grüner’s mainly for dinner, but always was fascinated by the hospitality of the house. Since returning to Sölden, we really like the warmth of all the staff and especially Matthias Grüner and his brother Peter Grüner. In summer one of the highlights is definitely the swimming pond in a beautiful garden and the breakfast, with a huge variety of local goods and fresh, healthy food. The rooms are spacious and the new rooms are really modern.

Off the track during summer.

Food

Grüner’s Wirtshaus (https://gruener-soelden.com/grueners-wirtshaus/) is a typical Tyrolian „Gasthaus“, with lots of local dishes but also plenty of barbecue dishes. Since years one of the highlights is definitely the calf „Cordon Bleu“, which is simply amazing.

Jati – Restaurant & Craft Beer (https://www.jati.at/) – decent burger, bowls and snacks. A good assorted stock of different craft beers and drinks. We tried the burgers and the bowls – we were really satisfied.

Summary

We hope we can convince you, that Sölden is not only a winter holiday location, but also is attractive during summer season.

So long,

P.

Fuh kin great – Restaurant Tim Raue

CoViD’19 ist aktuell all gegenwärtig und sicher für viele Menschen einschüchternd – aber die aktuelle Situation bringt auch kuriose und sehr spannende neue Konzepte und Ideen hervor. Eine dieser Ideen ist von Tim Raue, seine Frau & dem gesamten Team seines „Restaurant Tim Raue“ aus Berlin – ein deutschlandweiter Lieferung für ein gehobenes Gourmet Menü.

Provisorische Anrichte – Amuse Bouche

Wir waren in der glücklichen Lage dieses Menü an einem Freitag Abend bei uns zu Hause in Ulm zu testen & zu genießen.

Randbedingungen

Der Deutschlandweite Lieferservice wird zweimal die Woche angeboten Mittwoch -> Donnerstag oder Donnerstag -> Freitag (es kann immer nur in geradzahliger Anzahl von Menüs (2,4,6,8,…) bestellt werden, limitiert ist das tägliche Kontingent auf 100 Menüs). Die Lieferung erfolgt gekühlt mit über-Nacht-Express von DPD in einer Styropor Transportbox. Alle Gänge sind in separaten, nummerierten Boxen abgepackt – die einzelnen Komponenten sind in Vakuumbeuteln oder Plastik (ja, leider) Dosen verpackt. Das Anrichten ist intuitiv und in einer kurzen Anleitung beschrieben.

Das Menü

Amuse Bouche

Zum Start des Menüs wurden drei separate Kleinigkeiten gereicht:

  • Gelber Rettich mit Senf & Mayo
  • Schweinebauch mit Sesam-Chili-Marinade
  • Cashewkerne mit Currypaste karamelisiert

Das Team von Tim Raue schreibt „[…]das Menü beginnt landestypisch mit „Bachan“[…]“, wir waren zwar viel in Asien aber noch nie in Korea. Der Start begann definitiv sehr schmackhaft & machte Lust auf mehr.

Amuse Bouche

Vorspeise

Die Vorspeise bestand aus einem Tomaten Kimchi Sud mit bunten Tomaten & Lachs. Der Lachs vom Gar Punkt, sehr gut getroffen und sehr fein abgeschmeckt. Auch hier zitieren wir gerne das Team von Tim Raue „[…] Sehr ausbalanciert in ihrer Struktur mit einer lebendigen Säure und viel Umami … „. Diesem Urteil können wir uns nur anschließen süß, sauer, salzig, frisch in Einem, aber sehr ausbalanciert und lecker.

Vorspeise – Lachs (mit einer Gräte) in bunten Tomaten und Kimchi Sud.

Hauptgang

Gojuchang Beef Gulasch, rote Paprika, Süßkartoffel und Basilikum – ein Hauptgang der viel versprach und viel gehalten hat. Die Soße aus Beeftea & Sahne ein Gedicht, die Garpunkte von Fleisch & Gemüse nach ca. 15 Minuten Erwärmen im Sous-Vide-Becken perfekt. Ein würdiger Hauptgang und unser Highlight des Menüs.

Nachspeise

Nachspeise

Milchreis mit Apfel & Ingwer – dargeboten als Milchreis in einer Hülle aus weißer Schokolade mit einem „Kompott“ von Apfel mit Ingwer, dazu wurde eine Soße aus „Gurke und ? (wir wissen es einfach nicht)“ gereicht. Sehr stimmiger und nicht zu süßer Nachtisch – unser zweites Highlight des Menüs.

Fazit

Es war ein schöner, ruhiger Abend in den eigenen 4 Wänden mit gutem Essen. Die Speisen waren alle sehr schmackhaft, sehr gut abgeschmeckt und von den Gar Punkten & Qualität sehr zufriedenstellend. Sicher ist die Anlieferung aus dem fernen Berlin nicht die umweltfreundlichste, jedoch bleibt ein solches Dinner für uns ein rares und besonderes Highlight. Wer also ein solches Highlight in der aktuellen Zeit erleben möchten, dem empfehlen wir dieses Erlebnis sehr gerne – es lohnt sich.

Weinauswahl

Wir wählten für unser Menü zum Amuse & der Vorspeise eine klassischen Veuve Clicquot Brut Champagner. Eine für uns sehr passende Wahl der kräftige Champagner unterstütze den vielschichtigen Geschmack der Vorspeise & die Schärfe des Amuse perfekt. Zum Hauptgang servierten wir eine Lagrein von 2018 aus dem Hause St. Pauls. Der fruchtige Rotwein passte auch hier zu den reichhaltigen Aromen des Gulasches. Zugleich ist dieser Lagrein einer unserer Lieblingsweine.

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